Originally Published Sept. 18, 2004 by Chad
In truth, however, we didn’t really follow any trail. We followed the “Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail Auto Tour Route.” We hoped we would see historical markers—you know, the brown signs at the sides of highways that nobody ever stops to read—along the way, but there weren’t many of those. There were occasional signs indicating we were crossing the actual trail the pioneers followed, but the cornfields there looked just like the cornfields everywhere else. I think once the trail went through a field of soybeans. That was interesting.
Just east of Fort Madison, Iowa we crossed a toll bridge (free for bicycles) over the Mississippi River, and then turned south for nine miles to Nauvoo, Illinois. Nauvoo is a city built on previously unwanted swamplands that was the epicenter of Mormondom from 1839 to 1846. In its heyday it had nearly fifteen thousand inhabitants and rivaled Chicago in size.
Mormons, or Latter-day Saints, as we prefer to be called, came from all over the U.S. and Europe to settle in Nauvoo. They were building their Zion where they could prosper and worship freely. But while the city flourished, tension between the Mormons and other residents turned to violence. When Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet and leader, was killed by a mob in 1844 the Mormons knew they must move west again.
Now one hundred fifty eight yeas later, the Mormons are back in Nauvoo again. They have turned most of what remains of the old city into something of a Mormon Disneyland. The buildings have been restored, there are wagon rides for kids of all ages, and demonstrations by blacksmiths, bakers, carpenters, rope makers and candlestick makers, all done by unpaid volunteers. Everyone should go there at least once, and it’s all free.
Although much of the history of the place seemed to be glossed over with LDS positivism, Nauvoo has been so well restored that it is impossible to not get a sense of the hardships those pioneers went through to build their city, and the even greater trauma of leaving it all behind.
There were two highlights of my visit to Nauvoo. First was the raccoon that chewed through our panniers and stole all of our food when we camped at Nauvoo State Park. You might say that gave me a sense of the persecution and later the starvation the pioneers endured.
The second highlight came from the land and records building. There I looked up my great-great-great grandfather and learned where in town he had owned land. We went to the lot and discovered a home still there. It looked like an old home, but I’m not sure if it is really his home. I should have knocked on the door to ask the current occupants.
Seeing the lot where one of my ancestors had lived and labored to build the city of Nauvoo, then learning about the trials he and his fellow believers went through, brought him to life for me in a way I’ve never before felt. I will be forever grateful that he and his family moved west so I could grow up among the mountains of Utah instead of the desolate and often boring Midwest. Its endless cornfields and endless winds were sometimes too much to bear.
I wonder what my great-great-great grandfather would have to say if he saw the way I live today. Would he choose to travel by bicycle instead of Ox and wagon? I don’t know, but he would probably chide me for imagining heckling from teenagers as persecution.
Posted by Chad at 09:00 AM
| Comments (4)
Original Comments: Though hard to you this journey may appear
I enjoyed reading that you were able to visit David Cluffs land and
seeing the pictures of it you sent to my regular email address. I think
you should put that picture of you standing in front of the house on
this website. Who knows maybe one of our distant relatives may see it
and be able to identify whether it is the original house.
Posted by shirley at September 20, 2004 10:20 PM
Posted by shirley at September 20, 2004 10:20 PM
--News of Twins—They are about ready to come home—maybe tomorrow the 23rd
--Maggie’s allergies—Your staples of cheese and bread may be making your allergies worse. Check your email for additional info from me
--Nauvoo relatives of Margaret’s—Husband and wife Enoch Perham Rollins and Sophia Philbrook. Came with 7 of their children to Nauvoo 6 weeks after the Prophet Joseph Smith was martyred. They were very disappointed not to have been able to meet him. According to a family history “Enoch spent a great deal of time working on the Temple. Was ordained into the 8th Quorum of Seventies. His trade of wheelwright and carpenter was very much needed in the wagon shops where he helped the brethren with their outfits to come west.” Two of their children died in Nauvoo, and their last child Charles Drowne Rollins was born in Nauvoo. Charles is Margaret’s great-great-great-?grandfather on the Harris side. On the Fox side of the family Henry Allen Beal and his parent John and Ann Deacon Beal, Myron Nathan Crandall and Tryphena Bisbee were married in Nauvoo.
Love, Melanie
Posted by Melanie Harris at September 22, 2004 09:19 AM
--Maggie’s allergies—Your staples of cheese and bread may be making your allergies worse. Check your email for additional info from me
--Nauvoo relatives of Margaret’s—Husband and wife Enoch Perham Rollins and Sophia Philbrook. Came with 7 of their children to Nauvoo 6 weeks after the Prophet Joseph Smith was martyred. They were very disappointed not to have been able to meet him. According to a family history “Enoch spent a great deal of time working on the Temple. Was ordained into the 8th Quorum of Seventies. His trade of wheelwright and carpenter was very much needed in the wagon shops where he helped the brethren with their outfits to come west.” Two of their children died in Nauvoo, and their last child Charles Drowne Rollins was born in Nauvoo. Charles is Margaret’s great-great-great-?grandfather on the Harris side. On the Fox side of the family Henry Allen Beal and his parent John and Ann Deacon Beal, Myron Nathan Crandall and Tryphena Bisbee were married in Nauvoo.
Love, Melanie
Posted by Melanie Harris at September 22, 2004 09:19 AM
Dear Ones,
Better to be attacked by racoon than bear but too bad if you had to replace your bike furniture. That equipment is probably hard to come by in the small towns around Nauvoo.
I got into your "connections" and thought about architecture and vocal music. When we were in Wales I noted that many older homes looked alot like those in Nauvoo and again in some pioneer town of Utah. Many of our ancestors came from Wales. In addition, I bought a CD of Wales choir music and it sounded so much like the Tab Choir. When wondering at times who we are (the Polynesians for example seem to have a firm grip on who they are) seeing the stream of architecture and hearing the patterns of music gave me a clearer sense of who I am.
Thinking of twins - Natasha, Nikia and myself moved the crib (dissembled and reattached) from Natasha's room to Logan and Glory's bedroom then fixed it all up with new mattress and covers for Chantell and Jadira. It would have been fun to be there when they arrived home today (if it happened).
Love, Dad Carl
Posted by Carl Harris at September 22, 2004 08:47 PM
Better to be attacked by racoon than bear but too bad if you had to replace your bike furniture. That equipment is probably hard to come by in the small towns around Nauvoo.
I got into your "connections" and thought about architecture and vocal music. When we were in Wales I noted that many older homes looked alot like those in Nauvoo and again in some pioneer town of Utah. Many of our ancestors came from Wales. In addition, I bought a CD of Wales choir music and it sounded so much like the Tab Choir. When wondering at times who we are (the Polynesians for example seem to have a firm grip on who they are) seeing the stream of architecture and hearing the patterns of music gave me a clearer sense of who I am.
Thinking of twins - Natasha, Nikia and myself moved the crib (dissembled and reattached) from Natasha's room to Logan and Glory's bedroom then fixed it all up with new mattress and covers for Chantell and Jadira. It would have been fun to be there when they arrived home today (if it happened).
Love, Dad Carl
Posted by Carl Harris at September 22, 2004 08:47 PM
